The Lincoln 210 takes first place once the length and quality of the clamps and
cables are counted alongside the measurements. It was the only welder in the
group to deliver exactly 100% of its selected current in every configuration
measured — at 100 amps and wide open, on 120 V and on 240 V — and its arc was
smooth and consistent from the first pass to the last. Limited to 175 amps for
stick, it penetrated 3.94 mm and held 1,398 lb before the weld broke. It also
weighs 41.86 lb and costs $2,300, and stick is only one of four processes it
handles, so judging it purely on these numbers understates what it is.
The Titanium is a close second overall and the value pick. Excluding cable and
clamp quality it averaged a 1.3 finish, the best of the group, and on raw
output nothing came near it: 233 amps at 240 V, 4.25 mm of penetration, and a
weld that took 2,436 lb to break, all for $320. Its weakness is the analog
dial, which makes a precise setting difficult and ran 104 to 107% of the
current selected — enough heat that a 1/8-inch 7018 rod is out of its depth at
full power. It also made easy work of rusty metal with a smooth, steady arc.
Under $100 the Hone is the one to buy. It held within 10% of its dial across
the range, reached 99% of its maximum setting at 240 V, lit up on rusty metal
after a couple of bumps, and its overload protection shut it down cleanly at 3
minutes and 49 seconds rather than letting it cook. At the same $90 the Ssimder
has no overload protection and destroyed itself 1 minute and 43 seconds into
the same test, and the $70 S7 never made more than 113.7 amps of a claimed 200,
penetrated half a millimeter, broke at 287 lb, and trips a 20-amp household
breaker in under a minute. One more thing worth knowing: with all the welders
capped at 130 amps for a four-pass beveled butt joint, the machines that could
actually reach 130 amps produced coupons breaking at around 4,500 lb each,
while the S7 and the Ssimder — which could not get there — broke well under
3,000 lb. For any inexpensive welder, a $30 to $40 current meter is money well
spent, because the number on the dial and the current at the rod diverged
widely across this group.